Rivendell Springs
Five state parks, a disappearing river, more than 35 miles of trail, and a two-hour paddle that ends at our dock.
A few miles upriver from us, the Santa Fe does something you have to see to believe. At O'Leno State Park the whole river — current, cypress banks and all — pours into a sinkhole and simply stops. The channel below it runs dry. For the next three miles the river is somewhere beneath your boots, moving through limestone caverns dissolved out of the seabed over millions of years, and then it rises again at River Rise Preserve as a wide, still, dark-green pool, as though nothing had happened.
The dry ground in between is a natural land bridge, and it is the reason the old Spanish mission trail and later Bellamy Road ran exactly where they did — travellers could cross the Santa Fe without ever crossing water. Rivers do this in limestone country, but almost nowhere can you actually follow one doing it — here there is a state park at the sink, a state park at the rise, and a marked trail joining them. It is the best place in Florida to see a river disappear and come back. Add the sinkholes, hardwood hammocks and spring runs nearby, and there is far more walking here than most people expect from Florida.
Everything below is a short drive from Rivendell Springs, and several of them are only minutes away. Drive times are approximate and measured from the house.
This is where the Santa Fe River comes back. After running underground for about three miles, it surfaces here as a wide circular pool and carries on toward the Suwannee. The preserve is quiet woods and big trees, and its trails connect directly into O'Leno next door — together the two parks hold more than 35 miles of multi-use trail.
Open 8am to sunset, every day of the year. Hikers, fat-tire cyclists and horses all share the trails, and there's a primitive equestrian camp with a 20-stall barn. Bring water and a map; the park staff say the same.
The best single hike in the area starts here, at a suspension bridge built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s. The River Trail runs boardwalks along the cypress-lined Santa Fe, past an overlook of the River Sink — the place where the whole river simply vanishes into the limestone.
The southern half of the Sink to Rise crosses several equestrian trails and gets harder to follow — pick up the paper map at the ranger station, since the numbered posts match it.
Most people come to Ichetucknee to tube. Fewer realise there are three good walking trails at the north entrance, and on a hot afternoon they are the better half of the park.
Trestle Point and Pine Ridge are dog-friendly. Pets aren't allowed on the trails to the launches or swimming areas — worth knowing if you've brought yours along.
The closest blue spring to the house, and an easy one. The walk along the spring run from the boil down to the Santa Fe takes only a few minutes, but the water is so clear that most people stop every twenty feet. Good for small children and anyone who wants the springs without a hike attached.
A quiet county park on the Santa Fe with a boardwalk, shaded picnic grounds and a gentle entry into the river. It's the softest landing of all the springs nearby, and a good first stop if you're easing into the week.
The serious hiking in this part of Florida. San Felasco has genuine terrain — rolling hills, steep switchbacks and log bridges — through old hardwood hammock, pinelands and wetland with cypress knees. It feels nothing like the flat Florida people expect.
Dogs are welcome on the South Trailhead hiking trails on a six-foot hand-held leash. Bikes and horses are not.
Not a long walk, but an unforgettable one. The Millhopper is a bowl-shaped sinkhole 120 feet deep and 500 feet across, with a boardwalk running down into it. Small streams trickle down the limestone walls and disappear into crevices, and the shade keeps the bottom green through the driest part of summer — a miniature rainforest sunk into the sandhills.
Fossil shark teeth, marine shells and the bones of extinct land animals have all been found in those walls. Half an hour here is worth the drive, and it pairs naturally with San Felasco, which is minutes away.
The best day you can have here doesn’t involve walking at all. Put the kayaks in upstream, drift past seven springs, and land at your own dock.
Load the kayaks, drive up to Rum Island Springs County Park and drop in there. It’s a Columbia County park on the Santa Fe with a boat ramp, an easy launch and a cold swim if you want one before you set off.
From there the river does the rest. You drift past seven named springs on the way home, most of them within the first couple of miles, each one a different colour where it meets the tea-dark water of the Santa Fe.
All in, it’s about two hours of easy drifting — longer if you stop, and most people do. No paddling against anything, no shuttle to arrange, no car to retrieve at the end. You simply land at the house, pull the boats up the bank, and walk up to the deck. It is, without question, the best thing to do here on a warm day.
River levels change through the year. After heavy rain the current runs faster and the water turns tannic; in a dry spell it runs low and slow. Ask us what it’s doing the week you arrive and we’ll tell you honestly.
Some mornings you won't want to get in the car, and you don't have to. The limerock drive runs a long way through pine and hardwood before it reaches the road, the pasture opens out under the ancient oaks, and the bank gives you nearly 600 feet of the Santa Fe to follow. Best done early, coffee in hand, before anyone else is up — that's usually when the deer are out.
Wild turkeys, foxes, otters and owls all turn up across the property. Go quietly and you'll see more than you expect.
Park hours, fees and trail conditions change — check the Florida State Parks website before you set out, especially after heavy rain, when low-lying river trails can flood.

Twelve private acres on the Santa Fe River, minutes from Ginnie Springs and Gilchrist Blue, with every one of these trailheads a short drive away.
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